It is said that the name “Tatev” comes from Eustateus, a disciple of St. Thaddeus (Jude) the Apostle, who along with Bartholomew the Apostle brought Christianity to Armenia. The monastery of Tatev was built on a basalt plateau in place of a pagan tabernacle. Following the adoption of Christianity as Armenia’s state religion in 301 AD, the tabernacle was replaced with a church. But the growth of the monastery began in 9th century after it became the seat of the bishop of Syunik, and by 11th century, Tatev hosted around one thousand monks. The invasions by Seljuq Turks and the 1136 earthquake caused a great damage to the monastery, it was rebuilt by the end of 12th century. Later, the monastery hosted on the most important medieval universities of Armenia – the University of Tatev.
The inner yard of the monastery is empty, no one seems to be around. On our right is a covered water spring. We drink some fresh water, and leave our backpacks here to wander around. At the other end of the monastery we see a yellow light shining dimly through the fog. Hoping to find someone there, we cross the yard, and behind the window glass we see a silhouette of a woman. We knock the door. She is surprised to see visitors. “Please, come in, you must be cold. I just prepared some rose hip tea, it’ll warm you up,” she says and invites us in.
Herself from Yeghegnadzor, Ophelia comes to Tatev from time to time and prepares food for the monks. As we sit down by the table in the refectory, Ophelia checks the shelves for jam and other food for us, meanwhile I briefly introduce ourselves and tell her the story of our trip, asking in the end if we could camp somewhere around. Ophelia says that we need the abbot’s permission for staying in the monastery. “Father Mikael is on the way from Goris to Tatev now, he teaches at the schools in the villages around Goris during the day. His phone is not available now, so let’s wait,” says Ophelia. A young parish clerk named Harutyun joins us soon, and we continue our conversation. While Emée and Ophelia, who speaks a little French, discuss the recipes of the dishes she cooks, me and Harutyun talk about the state of Christianity in modern Armenia, and discuss the interaction between the villagers of Tatev and the monastery.
Then we hear someone knocking the door. As Ophelia opens the door, we see three tourists from Germany, Italy and Brazil, who ask if this is a restaurant for tourists, because they saw the pots through the kitchen window. We say it’s not. And although Ophelia invites them in and they join our conversation, the three seem to be out of place, and we feel something is wrong with them. The atmosphere in the refectory changes right away. The guy from Brazil plays with the jam in front of him and says hitchhikers are insane. The Italian guy starts crying upon hearing Armenian religious music. He says he’s not religious at all, but the music reminds him of the days he used to go to church every Sunday. And only the German guy, although he looks somewhat confused, behaves according to the context. Since their taxi is waiting for them outside the monastery, they soon leave, and everything comes back to where it was.
(photo by Emée)
Meanwhile, Ophelia receives news from the abbot. Instead of camping outside in the rain, he suggests us to spend the night in a little stone building behind the monastery walls that used to be the oil press of the monastery, and was now a museum. Harutyun helps us to move our backpacks to the oil press, and also gets us camp-beds and extra sleeping bags and blankets. Not long after, father Mikael arrives. He is tired and exhausted. He sits silently by the table, his eyes are closed, and he says nothing. When the food is served, he blesses the meal, and we then take our dinner: a delicious sorrel soup, a bulgur porridge with mushrooms, a red beet and carrots salad, and potatoes. We enjoy our food in silence, and when the dinner is over, father Mikael and Harutyun leave us and begin the preparations for the evening service. We help Ophelia to wash the dishes, then drink tea.
Upon hearing the bells ringing and calling everyone for the mass, we go to the Sts. Paul and Peter Church. Built between 895 and 906 AD, it is the oldest remaining construction within the complex and the largest church of Tatev. Father Mikael and Harutyun, dressed in robes, begin the mass. It lasts an hour and a half, during which we stand on a carpet in front of the altar, following every movement of the abbot and the parish clerk, and crossing ourselves from time to time. Abbot sounds very tired, and his final “Amen” brings relief to all of us. We wish them good night, and then slowly walk to the oil press.
We lock the door, turn off the lights and go to bed. It takes some time before I fall asleep, thinking of father Aspet – the abbot of the Haghpat monastery, who perhaps had just finished the evening ceremony, too, and is about to go to sleep. Did anyone attend his mass in Haghpat? Or was he all alone by himself again?…