Iran Journey 2015: The Village of Kandovan

Read Nane’s version in Armenian

Friday, November 13, 2015. Tired from previous day’s adventures, we sleep until noon, and by the time we finally get out of the room, the breakfast – tea, cheese, butter, eggs, bread and jam – is served and ready for us. During the breakfast, Mahdi’s father explains us how we can get the bus to Kandovan, a troglodyte village located about 60 km south of Tabriz. While me and Nane drink our tea, a lively conversation begins among the family members, and then the next thing we learn is they decided to visit Kandovan together with us. It’s Friday, and everyone is free, so why not to go out for a picnic? And so begins the preparation for the journey.
The historical village of Kandovan, Iran

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Iran Journey 2015: Hitchhiking to Tabriz

Read Nane’s version in Armenian

Thursday, November 12th. The morning greets us with light rain as we leave the “Haer” B&B in a rush. Marieta who is the owner of the place needs to go to her work. Collecting all of our stuff, I forget my guitalele in the corner of the room and realize it only when we are on the road. Not willing to go back, we decide to pick it up on the way back home. Marieta’s son drops us off at the main road. There are few cars going in the direction of the border, so we take a taxi (costs AMD 1000 from Meghri to the border). The Armenian part of the border is easy to pass – we get our backpacks scanned and passports stamped in less than 5 minutes. An e-bus, apparently hired by a mid-aged Iranian Armenian businesman who invited us to join him, drives us to the bridge over the Araks river that connects the two countries. From here we walk our way into Iran.
Truck and hitchhikers on the road from Armenia to Iran Continue reading

A Trip to Noratus Cemetery

A long blue bus, the one imported from China to serve the Yerevan-Abovyan route, takes us out of Yerevan’s center to the road that connects Armenia’s capital with Gegharkunik and Tavush provinces, and particularly, with Lake Sevan. The bus is full, but we make our way out of it at the bus stop just after the Northern Bus Station. It’s noon. A warm and sunny February day. As we, me and my soulmate, Nané, reach the spot known to us from all of our previous trips along this road, we stretch our hands, thumbs up, and a minute later we get a ride from three friends who are driving their black Mercedes home to their village near Ijevan. They share their experiences in Russia – stories of their life and jobs in Siberia. Our conversation reminds me of my own adventures in Siberia.
On the Road from Yerevan to Sevan, Gegharkunik province, Armenia
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